Monday, March 25, 2013
What a difference a day makes!
Sunday, March 24, 2013
General observations
Evenings moored in the snug island harbors is an interresting dance of the dinghys. Sailors and passengers pile into the rubber dinghys and go ashore. Some going to replenish on board supplies, others looking for liquid refreshments and maybe a bite to eat.
Out in the mooring field the motorboat Deliverance goes from yacht to yacht selling ice, water, beer, fresh baked goods, and relieving you of your trash (for a fee).
Another local seems to be connecting the dots in his dinghy to collect the $30 mooring fee and supply receipts. One man came to our boat announcing himself as The Traveling Salesman. His ramshackle dinghy was full of "the best quality t-shirts in the BVI's." Although he didn't have a mens medium, we bought a large. He thanked us and bestowed his almost toothless smile on us as he left. His motor was minus a top cover but lettering on the side of the dinghy announced that he was, indeed "The Traveling Salesman."
There are sometimes enterprising locals hawking organic produce, homemade baked goods made with organic ingredients, and silk screened t-shirts designed by a local artist. This last couple said they were living on the beach (literally) in Trellis Bay.
Each island and harbor has its own flavor and charm as well as an ever changing cast of interesting characters that create the intricate siren's song that pulls us back for another visit.
Sounds of the Islands
I wish I could capture the sounds of the islands, bottle them like rum, and serve them like a soothing drink to conjure the essense of the islands. Roosters roam the streets and hills, their soft cock-a-doodle-doos reverberate in the hollows all day. When moored in the little harbors and cays of Jost Van Dyke young goats call continuously for their mothers as they roam back and forth over the crest of the little islands. The lapping of waves against the sides of the boat can be soothing or nerve wracking depending on the time of day and their intensity.
While diving and snorkeling it's a whole different experience. The sounds are sort of hollow and muted with Sea Hunt side effects (bubbles). Actually, it's surprising I could hear any of the intricate sounds of the islands at all since my ears are still blocked up from swimming. Not complaining...just saying.
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Morning Pastime
Why is it so fascinating to watch pelicans diving for breakfast? Maybe because it is so far removed from our daily routine. Or is it? It seems almost like a social activity. Like going to Starbucks for a latte and a scone!
Friday, March 22, 2013
Thursday, March something...I think.
Sailed through the Caminoes this morning. Snorkeled along Monkey Point on Guana Island for a while this morning. Lovely place but not much variety of fish and visibility not the best. Millions of tiny fish swimming in undulating schools. Made me nervous wondering, if there are this many bait fish here.... not to worry.
On to Cane Garden Bay on the west end of Tortola. Winds have shifted to the south. We reached an all time high speed of 8.6 knots then chickened out before heeling over too much.
Sunset here is sure to be amazing.
Cane Garden Bay
There is an elaborate ritual going on right now. 3 men in a boat dropped an fish net with floats in a horseshoe shaped configuration out from shore. Not sure yet whay they may be trying to catch. Boat anchored now and 2 of the 3 are inside the net area with snorkels and masks. Are they trying to decide if there is enough catch inside to warrant pulling in to get the catch or just hauling it in?
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
Wednesday, March 20
Dove the Rhone this morning. Saw an unbelievably huge grouper - 4 feet long minimum! Sailed to Marina Cay. Thinking about Ellen and Ken in Caminoe since we are right here. No permanent mishaps yet but we still have 2 full days and 3 nights to go. Wondering just how long I could enjoy this beauty, adventure, trade winds, and sailing with my favorite sailing buddy. A pretty long time, I think, but we would both love to share the experience with others. Any takers?
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
Tuesday - Jost Van Dyke to Cooper Island
After rocking n rolling our way from the Indians to Jost under reefed sails yesterday, we are motoring into the wind today. Yesterday wind gusts upwards of 30 knots and swells of 6 - 8 ft made us feel like real sailors! Gauge that measures wind speed and direction not working. Neither is inverter so no ipad for now. Maybe we can charge on land later
We've practiced diving on our own twice in preparation for diving the Rhone tomorrow. We were the only diners at Abe's for dinner last night. Too windy to light the grill. Partly cloudy skys with showers daily, heavy at times.
Great sleeping weather. Not too hot during the day.
Sunday, March 17, 2013
First morning - Norman Island
Friday, March 15, 2013
Arrival in St. Thomas
On arrival at the airport in St. Thomas we are greeted with complimentary shots of Cruzan mango rum. Gotta love the islands!